The East End Thrift Store

Sanam Peshiman reviews the best kept vintage secret in town for magazine 'Revamp'

The fliers boast “the last great bargain in town”. For even the most cynical shopper in these credit crunch times, hand-picked vintage clothes for about a tenner, is more than enough of a gleaming prospect to venture into the real East End.

Forget Brick Lane and Shoreditch, no trendy fashion school drop outs for miles, The East End Thrift Store is located in a blink and miss it alleyway in Stepney Green. You may have to pass about a dozen fried chicken shops and then walk through a building site, but when you see the neon yellow sign board and hear the booming French electro music, you’ve chanced upon the warehouse of dreams.

Started in December 2007, The East End Thrift Store was conceptualised by owner Myles Oakley and manager John Howlin. Myles has been a buyer for 25 years and worked for concessions to TopShop. Increasing disappointment with high street fashion, and disillusioned by overpriced vintage wares found in Brick Lane, The East End Thrift Store was born out of sheer will to do something different.

“It permeates our every goal, we don’t compare ourselves to anyone but us...we don’t just want to be different, we genuinely are”, says manager John Howlin.

And different they are! Rows upon rows of 50’s tea dresses, 80s American Varsity Bomber Jackets, Tweed waistcoats, Tartan skirts, Trench Coats, 80’s sparkly prom dresses, all with inviting price tags of £10-£20 each, all lined up in clothing racks you can’t wait to rummage through. Bins filled with silk scarves for £3, racks of cowboy boots, classic aviators, and belts a-plenty, this is definitely where you can get your vintage fix, for about the cost of a good meal.

In conversation with the friendly owners, who are completely hands-on with the business and seem to know their customers by name, face and favourite trend, you get a sense that these guys don’t just adore what they do, they completely live for it. “We work extremely hard to keep our prices as low as possible, and when we say hand-picked, John and I literally go through every single piece you see on display, and nitpick like you wouldn’t imagine,” declares Myles proudly. With 25 tonnes of shipments from North America and all over the world coming in constantly, that is no mean feat! Plans for expansion and popularity have led new nooks and crannies of the abandoned warehouse constantly being reclaimed by vintage goodies, and they have even opened a new store in Brick Lane.

How on earth do they manage to keep their prices so low and their stock so fresh and inspiring? “We work at least six months in advance, if we see a trend, or feel it coming on, we don’t wait for it to be put into action, we order stock and display it as soon as possible...we don’t do vintage for the sake of it, we really want to play a part in shaking things up, in creating trends, not following them” and the bold assertion rings true. What brings back customers time after time isn’t just the amiable owners, the off-the-beaten track warehouse and the element of a bargain, but really it is the unmistakeable aura you get when you walk through the double doors that somewhere in the midst of those thousands of clothes, there lies a trend just waiting to come back.

View from the Wedges

Columnist Sanam Peshimam rants about Blood, Sweat and Shoes on the London Underground...

Yet another shitty day, and yet another shitty commute. I’m jammed up next to what Feels like seven million people on the same train back home after a tedious day at work. Someone sneezes, everyone shuffles and a woman squarely steps on my toe. She raises her eyebrows to apologize; I forgive her with a subtle nod of the head. No words are exchanged, that would be blasphemy! We are on the London Underground after all. Lon­doners are notoriously straitlaced about such matters you see. Nobody talks to anybody on the tube except for narcissists: who insist on parlaying their woes at loud volume, maniacs: of whom there are several, or tour­ists, who can and usually do fit under both categories. Forget speech, even looking at another individual for more than the mandatory three seconds for the London once-over is considered passive aggressive.

In such situations I often find myself wondering where to place my eyes safely during the hour long ride home. I avoid advertisements, since I’m on a detox from subliminal spending; the tube upholstery is dull as dishwater, and as for other individuals in the compartment: shaky ground I tell thee! Where can one look that is not a direct provocation? The face is a no-go area, as previously stated, and after finding myself mistakenly staring at an el­derly gentleman’s crotch for much longer than necessary, I’ve stopped looking anywhere short of the neck and above the knee. That people-watching on the tube is one of my favourite activities all has to do with the one area I have decided is definitely OK to examine for as long as I wish.

Shoes! Oh the hundreds of pairs of shoes every Londoner subconsciously looks at every single day...When I realised I was always staring at people’s feet in the carriage, I began to really look. Shoes can tell you millions of whispered stories if you’re attentive. Indie converses, practical loafers, tie-up Gucci brogues, falling apart ballerina flats, impractical spindly stilettos they all reveal more about that person sharing your oxygen space than the three second look in their eyes. I’ve made a hobby out of examining people’s shoes on my ride home and trying to figure out what makes them tick. You’ll discover a whole new world playing this game of “if the shoe fits...” But be warned! As a seasoned shoe-watcher, I have developed many prejudices. Crocs, Uggs or any form of furry/plastic footwear immediately relegates the wearer to idiot status. Talk about judging a book by its shoes? Perhaps, but sometimes if you look carefully enough, the shoes tell you things much more interesting than this hour’s copy of The London Paper.

Excerpts from the Magazine 'Well-Heeled'

Excerpts from the student magazine project 'Well-Heeled' where Sanam Peshiman made up the small team of editor, features writer and general dogsbody

Justification for Publication

The magazine Well- Heeled is a glossy quarterly publication geared at shoe-loving women between the ages of 15-50.

The entire style and tone of the magazine is very feminine, quirky and girl-next-door. It’s the kind of magazine you’d pick up to lift your spirits after a rough day and be assured to leave it feeling charmed.

The ethos behind the magazine is that while clothing is often the front-runner in terms of fashion, the power of shoes to our wardrobes is often not paid enough attention to. This magazine’s goal is to turn the focus onto shoes. It celebrates shoes, and makes us think about what we’re putting on our feet.

The editorial material, both pictorial as well as written, is very easygoing, glamorous and aspirational. The women who read this magazine won’t think twice before spending a week’s rent on expensive shoes, but are also excited by cheaper high street transient options. The pictures and subjects are deliberately extremely feminine and eye-catching, and are designed to be easy reading for one and all, no matter where the reader lives, or what she does. This magazine attempts to speak a language of love, passion and admiration for footwear to a generation of women who are obsessed with what they put on their feet.

Whether looking out for the latest trends in shoes (often easier to follow than fashion) or trying to think of the perfect birthday present for a shoe-loving girlfriend (the food page is a handy help) to getting the latest news on what is hip, hot and exciting in the world of footwear, this magazine caters to one and all. The shoe expert or the shoe novice, all have something they can take away from the magazine, which feeds into this interest in shoes and encourages it!

The advertisements are from famous designers who know that the discerning women who read the magazine, are more than likely to buy their shoes, or aspire to at least someday.

Overall the tone of the magazine is quirky, girly and approachable. Just when you feel it may be a little naff and amateur, it picks up the pace with a very astute observation on a trend or an upcoming shoe designer. There is something for every shoe lover, and it seems nowadays, everybody is a shoe lover!

EDITOR'S LETTER

Welcome Shoe Lovers! Here at Well- Heeled I am extremely excited to present our first issue dealing with the amazing world of shoes. People in the know often say you are either a shoe person, or a bag person, so along with Carrie Bradshaw, Imelda Marcos and about a million other women I am most definitely a shoe person. Ever since I can remember I have adored shoes. They are the perfect way to accentuate, downplay or simply add that extra oomph to your outfit. I still remember my very first favorite pair of shoes; I would’ve slept in them if I was allowed! Like me, millions of women around the world everyday are fascinated, invigorated and in our case, here at the magazine, inspired by footwear. This magazine is for all those women who ever fell in love with a pair of shoes; for the women who pick their shoes first, then their outfit later; for those women who know no matter what the outcome of the size zero debate, shoes will always make them feel fashionable and fabulous! Every month here at Well- Heeled our team diverts their attention knee-down to bring you the best from the beautiful world of shoes. We’ve got juicy news from Manolo Blahnik menswear to the latest on Pierre Hardy’s delish Gap range. This month we also shine the spotlight on the fabulous Nicholas Kirkwood, while our reporters ignore the fashion and focus on the good, the bad and the outrageous heating up the Spring/Summer 2008 catwalks. You’ll be chuckling over our star columnist’s views atop her sexy wedges, and might even decide to attempt a hand at baking up some fantastic shoe cakes. Our cover story this month is all about unraveling the aura of shoes in our lives, and revealing the favourite dress up and dress down shoes with a quirky picture diary. We spoke to lots of women about the shoes they grace their feet with, and we found every pair had a different story to tell about its wearer! Finally, always wear your shoes with safety and in the best of health, as we expose an uglier side to shoe obsessions gone too far, and give you helpful tips on how to walk in those sky high heels. With such an action packed issue, we hope to leave you hungered for more shoe fun ready to come. We don’t believe in glamour models, we push the fashion to the background…for years and years shoes have been relegated to the accessories closet, and once a month, we’re pushing shoes out from supporting roles to the forefront where they belong. Happy shoe shopping!

NEWS AND VIEWS KNEE-DOWN
Security meets Style

Every traveling woman’s nightmare- security checks! Whether watching about half our entire makeup bag being tucked into unappealing clear sandwich bags, or having our harmless tweezers branded a weapon, it seems security checks are out to get us! Imagine wearing your perfect travel-ready outfit, only to be stopped and told to take off your shoes. Hobbling around unattractively in a pair of tights with a hole in the toe may be a thing of the past thanks to researchers at the U.S. Department of Energy's Argonne National Laboratory. The ingenius discovery of a scanner using T-rays, a harmless form of electromagnetic radiation, could make it possible to examine traveler’s shoes without the need to disrobe. Unlike conventional X-rays, which can cause cell damage, T-rays do not have enough energy to lead to radiation sickness or cancer. And while they cannot see through metals or water, they can penetrate many common materials like leather, fabric, cardboard and paper. Ulrich Welp of Argonne's Materials Science Division said his colleagues and him still have a lot of fine-tuning to do, but the discovery offers a lot of promise. Great news for travelling in style without breaching security regulations at last!

Pierre Hardy for Gap: The magic continues!

Pierre Hardy’s capsule collection for Gap Europe has now been expanded towards Gap Inc. in the USA. The company announced Pierre Hardy for Gap womenswear shoes would hit the shelves in USA by February, as part of an expanded agreement with the French shoe designer. "This collaboration allows our customers to access Pierre Hardy's signature style in a way that reflects Gap's easy-to-wear aesthetic," the company says, with shoes priced at a convenient $70-$100. Hardy’s Design Editions collection for Gap Europe was extremely well-received, and the company hopes to follow the trend online and in select Gap stores nationwide.

Watch Out for: Piatonna’s Preziosa Range

The working women’s dilemma of flats versus heels has been conveniently answered by handbag designer Pia Tonna. Come February 2008, she will launch the Preziosa range of handbags under her Piatonna label, with each beautifully crafted leather bag coming with it’s own pair of sandals and the room to store them in! Says the designer, “"I love to wear heels but when I have to get from a to b around town in a hurry, or when I am taking it easy on holiday, then flats are an ideal option. So, to be able to carry your sandals around in the external pockets without them interfering with the main compartment of the bag seemed to me an obvious idea” Determined that her first foray into footwear wouldn't compromise Piatonna's reputation for standout luxury, the sandals are made from optical-lasered, metallic nappa leather and are available in seven opulent colours - which you can clash or coordinate with your bag as you choose. While Piatonna’s focus will continue remaining with innovative handbags, this brief foray into ingenius shoe design promises a combination to watch out for! Email info@piatonna.com for further details.

Fridamania

Fridamania has now reached our shoe wardrobes! Acclaimed Mexican artist and icon, Frida Kahlo’s commercialization has hit new heights with Converse releasing a new line of Chuck Taylors inspired by the artist’s cult status. The shoes feature the artist’s image, signature and snippets of her more famous works and are available throughout Mexico for about $80 (that’s roughly £45 for us!) The mass marketing of Frida has generated a number of critics in her homeland, who point out that the leftist painter (her casket was covered with a Communist Party flag) would have likely been revolted by the idea of her face and paintings being used to rake in corporate profits. Nonetheless, enthusiastic Kahlo lovers are choosing to wear their art where everybody can see it, at their feet that is!

Watch Out for: Manolo Blahnik Menswear

After a seven year hiatus, Manolo Blahnik returns to the menswear scene once again. With designs ranging from the classic suede oxford brogue to the unconventional leopard print sandal, Blahnik claims this small collection is an attempt to bring back some colour in the male wardrobe. Due to hit the shops in February, prepare to get your boyfriends and brothers hooked on the Blahnik Shoe Craze!

Buy it now: Agent Provocateur and Kurt Geiger

What do exquisite lingerie and beautifully crafted shoes have in common? Aside from the feel good factor that make every woman a devoted lover, Agent Provocateur and Kurt Geiger’s collaboration proves that sexiness doesn’t have to be limited to lingerie. The delicious range, entitled Pure Sex, is designed to compliment a women’s outer and underwear. The eight-piece range officially launched in October, with the subtle- chic strappy courts, to the statement making- racy, over the knee boots. So if you missed the bandwagon, buy some shoes you’ll never want to take off- on a night out, or in the bedroom…

SHOE CELEBRITY PROFILE

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

• WHO he is A bespoke and couture shoe designer, twenty seven year old Nicholas Kirkwood is one of Britain’s most promising talents in the footwear department. He is known for his thick stacked heels, solid, yet light looking wedges and angular pumps.
• WHEN it all began With a fine arts foundation from Central Saint Martin’s, Kirkwood worked for British milliner, Philip Treacy, before studying shoemaking at Cordwainers at London College of Fashion. He began by making shoes just for himself, debuting his first women’s collection in 2005.
• WHY he does what he does His aesthetic is infamously inspired by sculpture and architecture. Says the designer, “I think some of it is taken from architecture in a way that is not decorative in the classic sense, but lots of the shapes I've developed are based on how the shoe looks as a silhouette.” The designer said one of the things he loves most is having the freedom to design some shoes that are not ever intended for mass retail. “I want to create just for the love of doing it,” he says. “To have something that’s unique and not for commercial purposes at all. It keeps my spirit alive.”
• WHAT people say An unmistakable style, good timely design and top-notch craftsmanship have wooed the critics and the crowds. August 2007 had the designer win the AltaRoma/Vogue Italia “Who is on next” award for accessories design.
• WHERE to find him Currently stocked at Harrods, Browns Focus and Dover Street Market in London as well as another twelve stores worldwide including Kuwait, China, USA, Canada, Italy, Germany and Russia.
  
  

TREND WATCH

The good, the bad and the outrageous from the S/S 08 catwalks

This season the catwalks almost cried out with glee at the statement-making heels stomping down their length. Heels were undoubtedly the way forward, from needle-thin and sharp to homely chunky shapes.

Alexander McQueen set the precedent on the loud, the proud and the outrageous with big and ridiculous double-stilts. It was hot pink and black all the way with rake-thin stilettos inspiring awe and fear. The glam quotient was high and all shoes concerned lived up to the order of the day. Ties around ankles were spotted, whether prim and proper school-style shoestring laces or rope-like twisted ties with little tassels tossing behind the ankle like a pom-pom. Mr. McQueen never fails to create shoes that leave tongues wagging and the truly fashionable salivating.

Prada also experimented with heels, displaying a whole range from the narrow and familiar to the chunky and odd. Colors that wouldn’t be amiss on your grandmother’s knitted sweater; the buckles, buttons, straps and bobbles all ingeniously worked together to create some real outlandish statements. Miu-Miu went a step further and really made you look twice at the intricately and strangely adorned heels. One particular shoe had a tea-cup handle sticking out of its kooky kitten heel begging onlookers to drink in the sight of the look-at-me footwear.

Balenciaga interestingly chose to offset their fashion’s floral fascination with decidedly geometric shapes on their infamous black and white gladiator-gone-wild knee-high pieces. Unable to decide whether they were a shoe or a boot, they decided to be vain and defy convention to avoid being pigeon-holed as either.

Defying convention seemed to be another running theme as Marc Jacobs presented a crazy, invisible heel in gravity-defying patent leather fuchsia and forest green pumps. Candy colors were also spotted at Marios Schwab in a funky, cutaway geometric printed wedge heel ankle tie-up sandal.

Chloe couldn’t seem to decide if it wanted to go for a wedge or a cone heel, so decided to conjure up a not quite conical, not quite wedge shaped heel with a throwback to the 80s in patent leather white and candy floss pink.

Sophia Kokosalaki on the other hand, definitely decided on the conical shape, in an interesting show stopper piece in rich black, with double buckles. The caged-up front of the shoe was set off ironically by a thick fluffy black bobble and created an element of satire. Stella McCartney also jumped on the conical bandwagon in a decidedly natural range of shoes. Both sturdy and innately feminine; the wooden, ornately embossed heels in natural shades of army grey, mother-nature brown and light camouflage green were held together with natural materials like raffia and exposed cotton.

Last but not least, of the statement making brigade were Dries Van Noten’s gorgeous pumps. Crushed and folded silk in rainbow and exotic bird-feather colors held together to a perfectly prim round toe with a vertiginous stiletto heel.

The fantastic statements, whether feminine and stoic, or gregarious and wild, made the shoes on the Spring Summer catwalks often steal the spotlight from the fashion.

Trend Piece

Love First, Live incidentally

It was a time when self-indulgence and feminity collided to create beautiful visions of elegance. The Spring Summer 2008 key trend inching its way into our wardrobes this Christmas is aroused by the 1930s Great Gatsby era.

The floaty femininity was paid homage to on Chanel and Christian Dior’s catwalks. Drop-waisted dresses, in luxurious fabrics from chiffon to charmeuse, dressed up with beads and sequins, in hues from tangerine red to deep chocolate were spotted and loved at Paris fashion week. While Karl Lagerfield concocted creations of drapey chiffon gowns, with multiple chiffon shawl collars overlapping at the front, Galliano for Dior personified glamour with pinstripes, high-waisted trousers and light crystal fringed hems.

The trend is seeping it’s way onto the high street, with Oasis paying it’s respects in a beautiful sequined drop-waisted dress and even Kate Moss for Topshop paying heed with a midnight blue sequin strand dress.

Get inspired by the decadence of the era with hits of jazz and muses like Coco Chanel and Zelda Fitzgerald, who once said she’d want to “love first and live incidentally”. The key to embracing this trend is to find your inner femininity and invoke her elegance and allure into every aspect of your attire.

Get fashion forward this festive season and channel your inner Mademoiselle, propped up with perfectly coiffed hair in soft waves, classic pearls and some serious red lippy.

The story of the £1 Primark Dress

Sanam Peshiman explores a story after a £1 Primark Dress for an MA student project

We’ve all been victims of a dirty Primark binge, leaving even the most thickskinned shopper feeling guilty, cheap and unethical. Yet Primark has been named the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, with millions enamoured by the fast fashion, at cheap throw away prices. The allure of the high street has never been as impactful on fashion as it is today. Everyone prides themselves on mixing and matching their style from top-end haute couture to £3 shorts from Topshop. The look everyone seems to be going for is like they’ve tried hard enough not to try hard, with frivolous, frothy pieces from Primark playing supporting roles against Balenciaga and Miu Miu. Is it possible to pull off a £1 Primark dress as a fashion forward outfit this season? The answer is, yes, with a little bit of time, patience and creativity you can turn even the scabbiest, cheapest Primark find into something fit for shimmying onto a red carpet in.

BEFORE: This £1 find was something you’d find on a poolside at a Lanzarote beach resort. A knee-length, sheer, bright orange summer dress with a smocked neckline and a pleated hem had my work cut out for me when I first cashed it in at the till of Primark, and I couldn’t wait to get home to work my magic on it.

STEP ONE: Always purchase your cheap bargain dresses in a few dress sizes larger than your own in order to be able to work your magic on it with flexibility. I got this beauty in a size 14 allowing me to snip and hem at it without prejudice. The first thing I did was tuck in the pleated hem inward into a bubble hem. No sewing expertise required, just tuck it inwards and pin. Cut off remaining excess fabric and you’ll be left with a short mini-dress with a voluminous finish at the ends.

STEP TWO: The key to making a budget dress into a ready-for-party outfit definitely lies in the extras. I wore my new mini-dress on top of an a-line plain black ra-ra skirt to give it an added volume and bounce and to balance out the sheer orange-ness. The effect was a mini prom dress that wouldn’t be amiss in a cheerleader’s wardrobe. Almost there but not quite yet…

STEP THREE: Now for the accessories! Even the cheapest and most frivolous of buys can be deemed red-carpet ready depending on how and what you team it up with. I chose a Topshop thick waist belt which gave the dress a beautiful form and topped it off with a Stella McCartney Chocolate Brown trench coat worn loosely belted at the waist. All it needed was a pair of Manolo Blahnik patent leather black mary janes and a classic Chanel 2.55 shoulder bag and the transformation was complete!

AFTER: What started out as holiday bikini coverup was transformed into sexy Parisian chic. The bubble hem, cinched at the waist orange mini dress off-set by the chocolate brown elegant trench coat and the chic black accessories wouldn’t ever be mistaken to start from the £1 discount bin at Primark’s sale! It just goes to show you can use a little bit of originality to create a real head-turner! Try it at home today!

Sequins with Substance

Designer Ashish Gupta’s creations reflect the dual nature of his world

In conversation with Ashish Gupta, Sanam Peshiman finds him to be a designer operating between two forces, often opposing, yet somehow always complimenting each other.

Innocence and Experience

A three-time New Generation Award winner at London Fashion Week, Ashish is part of the prestigious Central Saint Martins alumni. Having won the award as many times as possible, Ashish is a designer who has been noticed as promising talent and encouraged at every step. Now, six years into his career, Ashish still manages to hold his own despite graduating from the group of up coming and slowly making his way to established. The 33 year old designer still manages to bring packed houses, proving that he isn’t one of the hundreds of talented designers who have their fifteen minutes of fame and then slink away into shadows. His most recent Spring Summer 2008 collection was his best received yet.

Glamour and Simplicity

Beautiful dresses gleaming with sequins in feminine hues of pale pink, sunshine yellow, gold, black and silver; it’s no surprise that Ashish is a name synonymous with glamour. The interesting dichotomy he presents is what makes his collection maintain it’s quirky edge despite being endearingly commercial. Loose, flattering shapes and even the most ornate of dresses teamed with practical pockets, Ashish presents the feminine, tough girl. She teams sequins with manly brogues; poker straight hair with loose, sheer shirt dresses. The Ashish girl this season is a beautiful mix of in-your-face toughness and self-assured femininity. The designer was inspired by Larry Clark’s Bully and claims the women who wear his clothes are strong, yet maintain a sense of humor. “She can’t be scared to be the centre of attention”, claims the designer, “You need to be ready to be stared at when you walk into a room.”

India and Britain

Growing up in Delhi, Ashish was inspired by his grandmother, a painter, and his mother, who he claims, always loved fashion. Pouring over copies of Vogue left around the house, Ashish says he always knew fashion was what we wanted to do. When asked if he sees himself as an Indian or a British designer, Ashish shrugs off the question claiming he doesn’t think of his work as a cultural mascot in any sense. “Am I an Indian designer or a British one? I don’t know, it’s not really relevant to the way I work, but if I had to choose I’d probably pick British.” From a generation of designers who aren’t confined to any one particular cultural phenomenon, Ashish refuses to be pigeonholed, yet flirts with the best of both worlds. With most of his embroidery done by hand in his own factories in India, Ashish’s clothes reflects the intricate craftsmanship India is synonymous with whilst being original enough to be found in the wardrobe of big celebrities and fashion icons.

Passion and Business

Speaking with Ashish, one instantly picks up for his passion and love for what he does. His fashion is fun and he has fun with it. Ask him if he’ll ever tire of sequins, he laughs and says “I’m not sure, but I hope not!” He doesn’t have a five year plan, nor does he see himself launching a flagship boutique. He lives from one fashion season to the next and believes that since he honestly believes in what he does, he just hopes to continue as he has been for the last few year. Yet Ashish never takes himself, or his fashion too seriously. “Yes, I love what I do, but I see it for what it is, a job I put in a lot of hardwork for and which makes me money.” It is this honesty which makes him not only a designer with vision, but a businessman who believe in making hay while the sun shines. The realistic attitude encouraged him to design for Topshop, with a new collection launching this Christmas. While some designers may claim launching a highstreet collection is a sell-out, Ashish begs to differ, “If anything I view it as a challenge, you need to keep in mind the price point, the store’s philosophy and of course keep the essence of your work, I still find it creatively stimulating.” It is this refreshing attitude that reveals Ashish as a designer with as much style, panache and substance as his clothes.

Interview with a Fashion Designer: Ayesha Depala

Sanam Peshiman interviews local designer Ayesha Depala

Ayesha Depala

The face of the Contemporary

Indian Fashion Designer

Ayesha Depala is a name that represents the face and future of the contemporary Indian fashion designer. At just 28, she shows her haute couture and prêt-a-porter lines in New Delhi, India, where she was born and raised. The uniqueness of Ayesha Depala’s collection, with its elegant dreamy dresses and razor sharp tailoring, really comes from her globalized perspective. She shuttles between her homes in London, Dubai and India, enabling her to keep her finger on the pulse of the global fashion scene. Ayesha Depala represents the new-age Indian fashion designer; well-traveled, highly articulate, hardworking and with a unique vision that combines a rich subtext of her Indian identity, with global influences.

What gave birth to your interest in fashion?

I was born and raised in New Delhi, India, into a family heritage richly seeped in textile and design. I began designing for friends and family as soon as I could get my hands on a free tailor. I attended Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, and got some much-needed educational grounding in fashion design. When I met my husband and now business partner, Dipesh Depala in 2000, he saw great potential in my creativity and suggested we formally launch the brand. I started with I-SHA in 2002, and after seeing the overwhelming success, decided to launch my signature collection Ayesha Depala, with both couture and prêt-a-porter lines.

What was your biggest break?

In 2005, the Ayesha Depala Signature collection was invited to show at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week in New Delhi. It was at that moment that I finally felt like I had arrived. My exclusive boutique in Dubai also opened, in addition to the original boutique in Delhi’s Ambatwa Complex. Being able to show in Dubai really put me on the map, because it is a country rich with diversity and the city is famous for being a shopping destination. The ever-expanding market consists of an interesting mix of people moving to, and visiting Dubai. This creates room for everyone to flourish, and luckily my line did just that.

How would you describe your style?

I don’t like to think of my clothes as just garments, but creations. I pay a great deal of attention to tailoring and the cut of my garments and the clothes are best described as classic yet contemporary. I have a very dichotomous approach to fashion myself, and that is definitely reflected in my clothes. The Ayesha Depala collection is always very feminine, with classic, simple lines and soft drapery. Yet it’s the small details that lend that particular edge which is prevalent in almost everything I design. My clothes, on the whole, have a feminine sensibility, and not a cultural one. Having said that, I must add that I am inspired by India, a lot of my work has paisley motifs, drapey silhouettes and sequined details. The general mood of the collection is relaxed elegance for the day, and 1950's Italian screen siren for the evening.

What was one thing said about you in the press that you found most intriguing?

A journalist once said that my collection manages to be patriotic whilst still holding a universal appeal that isn’t limited to borders or boundaries. I found that to be particularly intriguing because it kind of sums up my subconscious motivation for designing the way I do.

What challenges did or do you face as a designer?

One of the biggest challenges I faced in Dubai, particularly being an independent designer, was the difficulty in getting retail space. Most retail arenas, such as shopping malls, do not understand brands that are not “famous”. It took me a long time do be able to find a place to retail my collection, and finally I had to open my own boutique. Things are changing slowly, but this region is screaming for affordable retail spaces for independent labels from here and abroad.

What is the fashion climate like in Dubai at the moment?

Dubai is a growing, quickly developing city. It is completely unique in that with all the expatriates and multi-cultured influences, it’s one of those 21^st century cities that have a little bit of everything. This is definitely reflected in the fashion climate. People come from their home countries, and bring their own fashion sensibilities with them. All these mix together with the Local culture and produce a very interesting amalgamation of styles. The spending power is unparalleled in the Middle East, and so luxury goods and designer brands have a fantastic market here. However, personal style and that edge of quirkiness is something that needs to be developed. You very rarely find a cutting-edge approach to fashion as you would in say, London. It’s changing from one day to the next though, so I haven’t given up hope yet.

Tell me about your boutique and your future plans.

I was very clear that I wanted the boutique to reflect my collection and the entire sensibility of the Ayesha Depala brand. The boutique has a cosy, boudoir feel with a throwback to the fashion parlours of the couturiers of days gone by. Everything is decadent, yet frothy and, of course, innately feminine. We already sell fine jewellery and plan to introduce bags and shoes as well. We’re going to launch a children’s range which will have the signature Ayesha Depala elements. We’re currently looking at retailing in London and also have plans to expand further in Europe and USA. We already sell in Japan and the reception is phenomenal. We’re taking everything one step at a time, but it’s an exciting time for us. With the way globalization is obliterating traditional boundaries all the time, I feel like in the global fashion climate, there is room for Ayesha Depala, the brand.

You move around London, Dubai and India- how do your travels and experiences within these three countries affect your work?

I’m most definitely a product of my environment. As a designer, I am constantly travelling, experiencing, and using those influences in my work. I have an Indian sensibility with my approach to embroidery, tailoring and sourcing of fabric. Having studied and lived in London, I consider it my second home. London is where I always feel like I came into my own in terms of my fashion sensibility. Heady student days spent trawling around Dover Street market, checking into Camden to find the craziest accessories and popping into Brown’s Focus for a peek at the latest avant-garde designers have all impacted me in different ways. It was in London I developed a love for Vivienne Westwood’s construction, Comme des Garçons unusual knits and Alber Elbaz’s uncomplicated feminine sophistication. Moving to Dubai was another experience which is constantly reflected in my work. The beautiful weather and people and the traditional Arabian hospitality and appreciation for the finer things in life all come together beautifully. I’m extremely privileged I have the opportunity to combine these three perspectives in my collection.

What is the Ayesha Depala woman like this season?

This season I was inspired by one of my favorite style periods in history: the decadent 60’s and 70’s, my muse is the glamorous hippie, Verushka. It was the heyday of Bohemian glamour, and in this collection I tried to recreate some of that. The bright, pure jewel-tones — fuchsia, coral, turquoise, purple — and soft flowy silhouettes cut through the heavier toasty fabrics and stilted forms traditionally associated with winter collections.
Ayesha Depala- www.ayeshadepala.com info@ayeshadepala.com