Interview with a Fashion Designer: Ayesha Depala

Sanam Peshiman interviews local designer Ayesha Depala

Ayesha Depala

The face of the Contemporary

Indian Fashion Designer

Ayesha Depala is a name that represents the face and future of the contemporary Indian fashion designer. At just 28, she shows her haute couture and prêt-a-porter lines in New Delhi, India, where she was born and raised. The uniqueness of Ayesha Depala’s collection, with its elegant dreamy dresses and razor sharp tailoring, really comes from her globalized perspective. She shuttles between her homes in London, Dubai and India, enabling her to keep her finger on the pulse of the global fashion scene. Ayesha Depala represents the new-age Indian fashion designer; well-traveled, highly articulate, hardworking and with a unique vision that combines a rich subtext of her Indian identity, with global influences.

What gave birth to your interest in fashion?

I was born and raised in New Delhi, India, into a family heritage richly seeped in textile and design. I began designing for friends and family as soon as I could get my hands on a free tailor. I attended Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, and got some much-needed educational grounding in fashion design. When I met my husband and now business partner, Dipesh Depala in 2000, he saw great potential in my creativity and suggested we formally launch the brand. I started with I-SHA in 2002, and after seeing the overwhelming success, decided to launch my signature collection Ayesha Depala, with both couture and prêt-a-porter lines.

What was your biggest break?

In 2005, the Ayesha Depala Signature collection was invited to show at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week in New Delhi. It was at that moment that I finally felt like I had arrived. My exclusive boutique in Dubai also opened, in addition to the original boutique in Delhi’s Ambatwa Complex. Being able to show in Dubai really put me on the map, because it is a country rich with diversity and the city is famous for being a shopping destination. The ever-expanding market consists of an interesting mix of people moving to, and visiting Dubai. This creates room for everyone to flourish, and luckily my line did just that.

How would you describe your style?

I don’t like to think of my clothes as just garments, but creations. I pay a great deal of attention to tailoring and the cut of my garments and the clothes are best described as classic yet contemporary. I have a very dichotomous approach to fashion myself, and that is definitely reflected in my clothes. The Ayesha Depala collection is always very feminine, with classic, simple lines and soft drapery. Yet it’s the small details that lend that particular edge which is prevalent in almost everything I design. My clothes, on the whole, have a feminine sensibility, and not a cultural one. Having said that, I must add that I am inspired by India, a lot of my work has paisley motifs, drapey silhouettes and sequined details. The general mood of the collection is relaxed elegance for the day, and 1950's Italian screen siren for the evening.

What was one thing said about you in the press that you found most intriguing?

A journalist once said that my collection manages to be patriotic whilst still holding a universal appeal that isn’t limited to borders or boundaries. I found that to be particularly intriguing because it kind of sums up my subconscious motivation for designing the way I do.

What challenges did or do you face as a designer?

One of the biggest challenges I faced in Dubai, particularly being an independent designer, was the difficulty in getting retail space. Most retail arenas, such as shopping malls, do not understand brands that are not “famous”. It took me a long time do be able to find a place to retail my collection, and finally I had to open my own boutique. Things are changing slowly, but this region is screaming for affordable retail spaces for independent labels from here and abroad.

What is the fashion climate like in Dubai at the moment?

Dubai is a growing, quickly developing city. It is completely unique in that with all the expatriates and multi-cultured influences, it’s one of those 21^st century cities that have a little bit of everything. This is definitely reflected in the fashion climate. People come from their home countries, and bring their own fashion sensibilities with them. All these mix together with the Local culture and produce a very interesting amalgamation of styles. The spending power is unparalleled in the Middle East, and so luxury goods and designer brands have a fantastic market here. However, personal style and that edge of quirkiness is something that needs to be developed. You very rarely find a cutting-edge approach to fashion as you would in say, London. It’s changing from one day to the next though, so I haven’t given up hope yet.

Tell me about your boutique and your future plans.

I was very clear that I wanted the boutique to reflect my collection and the entire sensibility of the Ayesha Depala brand. The boutique has a cosy, boudoir feel with a throwback to the fashion parlours of the couturiers of days gone by. Everything is decadent, yet frothy and, of course, innately feminine. We already sell fine jewellery and plan to introduce bags and shoes as well. We’re going to launch a children’s range which will have the signature Ayesha Depala elements. We’re currently looking at retailing in London and also have plans to expand further in Europe and USA. We already sell in Japan and the reception is phenomenal. We’re taking everything one step at a time, but it’s an exciting time for us. With the way globalization is obliterating traditional boundaries all the time, I feel like in the global fashion climate, there is room for Ayesha Depala, the brand.

You move around London, Dubai and India- how do your travels and experiences within these three countries affect your work?

I’m most definitely a product of my environment. As a designer, I am constantly travelling, experiencing, and using those influences in my work. I have an Indian sensibility with my approach to embroidery, tailoring and sourcing of fabric. Having studied and lived in London, I consider it my second home. London is where I always feel like I came into my own in terms of my fashion sensibility. Heady student days spent trawling around Dover Street market, checking into Camden to find the craziest accessories and popping into Brown’s Focus for a peek at the latest avant-garde designers have all impacted me in different ways. It was in London I developed a love for Vivienne Westwood’s construction, Comme des Garçons unusual knits and Alber Elbaz’s uncomplicated feminine sophistication. Moving to Dubai was another experience which is constantly reflected in my work. The beautiful weather and people and the traditional Arabian hospitality and appreciation for the finer things in life all come together beautifully. I’m extremely privileged I have the opportunity to combine these three perspectives in my collection.

What is the Ayesha Depala woman like this season?

This season I was inspired by one of my favorite style periods in history: the decadent 60’s and 70’s, my muse is the glamorous hippie, Verushka. It was the heyday of Bohemian glamour, and in this collection I tried to recreate some of that. The bright, pure jewel-tones — fuchsia, coral, turquoise, purple — and soft flowy silhouettes cut through the heavier toasty fabrics and stilted forms traditionally associated with winter collections.
Ayesha Depala- www.ayeshadepala.com info@ayeshadepala.com